The library's Summer Reading Program might be over, but August's Spice Club selection is still an experiment with spices that are also used as natural dyes: in this case, sumac. As with last month's turmeric, I was more interested in the dye possibilities than the cooking because of previous culinary experiences.
I have a history with sumac, it being one of those things people tell me tastes lemony, but which to me do not taste even close to lemon (I'm looking at you, cilantro). I first tried sumac when cooking recipes from “The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen” by Sean Sherman, but found I didn't like the flavor. But the huge family of sumac variations all around the world means it's used in all kinds of cuisines, and I knew I needed to try it again and be more informed about which kind I was getting.
There are many different species of sumac, and the plants grow all over the world. That’s why sumac is used in so many different culinary traditions. The sumac I could find for culinary use, including the Spice Club samples from the library, are from Turkey. It would be interesting to find an American variety and see how the taste compares.
And the recipe I chose to try did indeed taste lemony, which I loved, but I wasn't sure if that was the sumac or the lemon juice that's also in the recipe. In fact, lemon was the main flavor, eclipsing the garlic and paprika — the recipe's two other major flavors. Full disclosure: I did the minimum marinating time, and I'm sure the flavor would have been more complex with longer marinating. The flavor was great though, especially with a salad of light summer veggies. I can imagine it also pairing really well with flavored rice.
I also picked this recipe because my doctor is trying to get me to eat more protein because it is so important in the healing process. I know this is a national trend, and there is added protein in everything nowadays — even my favorite cereal now has added protein — but protein-rich foods are something I usually ignore. I don't mind meat, but I just like potatoes so much better! And don't get me started on beans. I so wish I liked them! I also find the protein-fills-you-up idea to be as big a myth for me as things that aren't lemons tasting lemony.
But in the interest of coming out of this cancer journey as healthy as possible, I am trying to take in more protein-rich foods, like the chicken in this recipe. Although next time I make it, I am going to try it with chicken thighs. The chicken breast I used this time tended to dry out before it browned as much as I wanted.
Shish Tawook
Ingredients:
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken
1 cup whole milk yogurt
3 tablespoons olive oil (plus more if frying)
2 tablespoons lemon juice
5 cloves garlic, minced
1½ tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon sumac
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon salt
Directions:
Mix yogurt, olive oil, garlic, lemon juice, tomato paste, paprika, sumac, and thyme together in a bowl large enough to hold the chicken. Mix well.
Cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces and add to the yogurt mixture. Cover the bowl and put it in the refrigerator to marinate for at least two hours (and up to eight hours).
Heat grill, grill pan, or frying pan over medium heat. If you are using a frying pan, heat olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add chicken pieces in a single layer.
If using a grill, spear chicken pieces on a skewer. Sear the chicken pieces on one side until they are well browned. Flip and sear on the other side. I noticed when I cooked this recipe in a frying pan that the first batch of chicken browned really well, but the second batch didn't sear because the chicken juices and yogurt caramelized in the pan. So the chicken got brown from the liquid in the pan, but didn't sear. It tasted wonderful, but if you are looking for a good sear, make sure to wipe out the pan carefully between batches of chicken.
Serve with salad, pita, or rice.
I chose to have this dish with a salad and found my favorite poppy seed dressing went really well with the flavor of the chicken.
My Favorite Poppy Seed Dressing
¼ cup sherry vinegar
2½ tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons oil of choice
1 shallot, grated (or 1 tablespoon white onion, grated)
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Combine all ingredients in a salad dressing bottle or jar and shake until mixed well. Store in the refrigerator.
J is the Children's Services Librarian at the Churchill County Library. Currently, J is undergoing chemotherapy and modeling an increasingly wide variety of hats.
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