One of my favorite wonky political friends recently posted on his social media accounts that his goal for 2022 is to eat more lentils. I enthusiastically cheered this declaration as one does on social media, with a heart and a few words of congratulations and encouragement. I love lentils. In fact, back in the restaurant days, my co-workers used to joke about the frequency with which I would make a batch of lentil soup for the soup of the day… Sopa de lentejas! Ahhhh, delicioso!
We each had a soup that we would frequently fall back on when necessity required. Blue cheese and cabbage was Mike’s cult-favorite contribution, Lily was all about chicken tortilla, and “necessity dictated” that I simmer up some lentils at least once every two weeks.
Lentils actually come up quite frequently in conversation for me. First of all, they are remarkably good for brain health thanks to high levels of B vitamin folate. They work well in a variety of different flavor combinations–they pair just as well in a smoky ham mixed bean soup as they do in a Mediterranean curry veggie soup. They are super easy to cook, just simmer for about 20-30 minutes (depending on how much “tooth” you want your lentils to have). There’s even a lentil festival in Pullman, Washington with a parade, live music, the world’s largest batch of lentil chili, cooking demos, sporting events, and an annual commemorative poster (the thing that I now covet most). The region connecting Pullman, Washington and Moscow, Idaho is actually called “The Palouse”, named after the pulses (peas, lentils, and garbanzo beans) that are grown prolifically there. Idaho is responsible for 90% of the lentils in the United States. All the while, the lentil is a remarkably humble ingredient.
Lentils are also tragically misunderstood. Talk to anyone who works in a food bank or pantry, and they will use lentils as an example of a common conundrum for those who work to combat food insecurity–it’s not enough to provide people with healthy, nutritious foods, you have to also provide them with directions on how to prepare those foods. Lentils are a staple that are ubiquitous in food pantries, they are also one of the least “chosen” foods in those same places. Primarily because people don’t know how to cook lentils or what to do with them. This strikes me as sadly ironic–such a nutritious, delicious, and easy to prepare staple food being passed over just because people don’t know what they don’t know.
So here I am, joyfully spreading the word about one of my favorite ingredients.
Here’s how you cook lentils:
Put them in a pot, cover with water, add a little salt, bring to a simmer over medium heat
Cook for 17-20 minutes for a “toothy” lentil and up to 30 minutes for a mushy lentil.
That’s it. That’s how you cook lentils.
Now that we have broken down all of the obstacles, I hope that you will feel adventurous with the humble yet mighty lentil. Here is the lentil stew I made this last week:
Smoky Lentil Stew with Leeks and Potatoes by David Tanis
INGREDIENTS:
1 ½ cups lentils, any size green or brown lentil
1 onion, halved, plus 2 bay leaves and 2 whole cloves
Salt and pepper
4 or 5 medium potatoes, peeled, sliced 3/4-inch thick
3 T extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 leeks, white and tender green parts, chopped in 1/2-inch pieces
1 t chopped garlic
1 large thyme or rosemary sprig
2 T smoked sweet paprika
⅛ t ground cayenne, or to taste
Small pinch of saffron (about 12 strands), soaked in 1/4 cup cold water
1 c chopped canned tomato with juice
2 T sherry vinegar
Chopped parsley (optional)
DIRECTIONS:
Rinse lentils. Put them in a Dutch oven or large, heavy-bottomed pot and add 6 cups water. Pin a bay leaf to each onion half using a whole clove and add to the pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, add a large pinch of salt, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cook for 15-20 minutes until soft. Turn off heat.
Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of salted water to boil and cook the potato slices until just done, about 10 minutes, drain and spread out on a baking sheet to cool.
Put 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is wavy, add leeks and stir to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Let leeks cook briskly, stirring frequently until soft but still bright green, about 5 to 8 minutes. Turn heat to medium, stir in chopped garlic, thyme, paprika, and cayenne.
Add saffron and soaking water, chopped tomato and vinegar. Turn heat to high and let everything simmer for a few minutes. Pour contents of skillet into Dutch oven with lentils. Add the reserved potatoes.
Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook covered with lid ajar for about 10 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning, then cook for 10 more minutes. The lentils will be quite soft, and the potatoes will start to break. Discard onion and thyme sprig.
Finish with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and chopped parsley if you wish.
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